Neon brows were a salient accompaniment to the pastel hues that decorated the silks and hair ribbons and cheekbone highlights throughout Lan Yu’s FW17 collection. The pieces found harmony in their use of color and their softness, a vanilla and lavender embodiment, and were either unabashedly intimate or heavier and slouchy. Satin sleeping sets with lace hoods, crotched bodysuits, and silk robes were set against oversized rose blazers, woolen cowl-neck dresses, wrap coats, and evening gowns. At times the collection struggled with color resulting in disjointed transitions; minty pastels dominated but felt distant from the forest green velvets and earth tones that closed the show. I could see Yu’s hand getting more experimental close to the end, but somewhat unsure of how to integrate outlier ideas like her orange bodycons. The designer’s most beautiful moments were in her lace treatments and the weightlessness of her silk and chiffon pieces; tailoring was at its strongest in her variety of structured coats scattered down the runway.
Thank you to the Lan Yu team for having me backstage!